Buddhist banners in Tibetan and a fair sprinkling of saffron and scarlet robed monks characterise Bhutan. They all looked so innocent and young, with a perpetual Buddha like smile. Bhutan can be called the land of gross national happiness.
AS I write this, both Indian and Pakistani television channels are covering live the meeting between our respective Prime Ministers at SAARC at Thimpu, capital of Bhutan. It is some mystical destiny that the talks between our Prime Ministers, centering on the subject of state-sponsored terrorism, should be held in the most peaceful and happiest country on earth.
Even today, the world is largely ignorant about this wonderful gem, because of its ruler’s thoughtful policy of isolation from undesirable foreign influences. Suddenly in 80s, this small nation hit the headlines around the world and continues to be applauded and studied by United Nations and scholars as respected as Nobel Laureate, Amartya Sen. What had it done to deserve this limelight?
Traditionally, the progress of a country is measured by its gross domestic product (GDP). Out of the blue, Oxford educated King Jigme S Wangchuck stunned the world by challenging blind reliance on GDP, as consumerism is no guarantee for happiness. He postulated that wisdom of the rulers lies in their ensuring higher and higher GNH (Gross National Happiness) for their people. A commission studied those spiritual, cultural, social values, respect for environment and governance styles - which should determine the ethos of the nation. These are the markers for happiness. The world stood up and took note. Since then scholars and specialists vie with each other in redefining national mission statements and their modalities.
Now on a personal note! Thanks to my passion for the ‘road less travelled’, I go to places which are not on the usual tourist map. In the 90s, when I decided to go to Bhutan the idea was scoffed at. A country without shopping possibilities and no nightlife! Electricity only for four hours in the evening! Not even maps or tourist brochures. What was I going to do there? For precisely these reasons I landed at Paro, Bhutan’s only airport. From there we took a bumpy two hour ride to Thimpu. En route we were in lush green lap of the Himalayas, wending our way along a gurgling stream. Across the stream were rice fields with farmers’ abodes, painted with Buddhist motifs. I could well imagine what Tibet must have looked like before the Chinese colonisation. From the farmer to the king all wear the national dress in public. Buddhist banners in Tibetan and a fair sprinkling of saffron and scarlet robed monks characterise Bhutan.
They all looked so innocent and young, with a perpetual Buddha like smile. Of course, the shopkeepers (yes, you have guessed it right!) were all our own Marwaris! Then Bhutan did not issue any tourist visas for fear of the country becoming another hippie and drug infested Nepal. We Indians could enter with any photo ID like a driving license. The few foreigners I saw there were United Nations personnel and Japanese who were working on horticultural projects. All polluting industries were banned. Country’s economy was based on agriculture, horticulture, spices and aquaculture exports. I have never seen such huge orchids and butterflies anywhere else in the world.
Those who have read or seen James Hilton’s ‘Lost Horizon’ would recall Shangri-La, the Himalayan land where everyone was happy and never grew old. I am glad I went to Bhutan when it was not so open to the world, for I have seen my Shangri-La!